Trailing the Cabot in Nova Scotia

Thanksgiving weekend has come and gone for another year and I am very late in getting this blog written! I have no good excuse other than being busy with work and being lazy outside of work. Don’t judge me.

So last year for Thanksgiving (yes, we’ve been here more than one year!) we roadtripped to Quebec to go whale watching in Tadoussac. This year we headed even further east to Nova Scotia which is in the Canadian Maritimes (fyi the Maritimes are made up of New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland & Labrador). On Thursday evening we flew into Halifax, the capital city of Nova Scotia. Our loose plan was to pick up our car and check out as much of the province as possible. You can be the judge of whether we were successful with this mission or not.

Upon arrival on Thursday afternoon, we headed straight to our hotel to get settled before heading out to check out the city. First stop – Dinner at Durty Nelly’s. This Irish contingent are reading this and thinking ‘Hang on a second! That sounds just like any other Irish bar!’ You are correct. It was an irish bar. The Maritimes are totally celtic-esque. The people out there even speak with a semi Irish accent. There are heaps of Irish pubs and Irish music not to mention … yes, you got it, Irish dancers! Ha! I felt right at home!

Based on very good advice from friends, after dinner on Thursday night we wandered down to the Split Crow for a few drinks. We had been told by numerous people that this was the bar to go to in Hali. We were not disappointed. Granted, we were probably on the older end of the general pub population but we can party just as hard as any university student … is that pathetic? Should we have grown out of this by now? I think we will try ‘growing up’ after we’re married. We have still got plenty of time.

The evening was spent enjoying the live band at $2 beers (true story) and we were in high spirits by the time we wandered back to our hotel with Joep regaling me with his theory that the Split Crow has cheaper beer than the Elephant and Castle because … wait for it … It would be very expensive to buy an elephant and a castle. But splitting a crow probably wouldn’t cost much at all. I judge him here but if I am fair I have to admit that I got involved in this debate and things got heated. The important things in life :)

Friday morning we had planned to be up very early and out the door to begin our road trip. Thursday nights shenanigans put a bit of a spanner in the works and we didn’t make it out the door until 10am. Whoops! No matter, we hit the road with gusto and made our way down to Peggy’s Cove. It is a tiny village about 50kms from Halifax and has a population of 50 people. It is also one of the busiest tourist attractions in Nova Scotia because of a beautiful red-and-white lighthouse that sits on the tip of the cove and is still in operation. Word on the street is that it is one of the most-photographed structures in Atlantic Canada and one of the most recognizable lighthouses in the world. We were not incredibly impressed by the statistics but we were impressed by how pretty it was out there! We (especially me) were also very happy to be back on the coast again. Living land locked is manageable but I do miss the ocean terribly.

So we spent the next little while wandering across the rocks around the lighthouse taking note of the many signs warning us of impending death should we do anything stupid. Apparently tourists are swept off the rocks with surprising regularity – We were not included in those numbers and got away unscathed but completely content with our first coastal experience for some time.

After Peggy’s Cove we had planned to drive north east with the hopes of arriving at the start of the Cabot Trail before sundown. The Cabot Trail is a highway and scenic roadway which runs for 298km and completes a loop around the northern tip of Cape Breton island through the Cape Breton highlands (yes, there are highlands up here, I told you it was quite Celtic!).

Rough calculations had us arriving at the start of the trail by about 5pm but we had not yet booked accommodation choosing instead to play it by ear. What we didn’t take into account was the fact that Thanksgiving weekend is also the weekend of a big Celtic festival in the highlands … yikes! We called B&B after B&B and got the same very friendly response informing us that they were booked out. The lovely thing was that every time we spoke to someone who apologized for having no room they then gave us the name of a friend of theirs who also has a B&B that might be able to fit us in. The Canadian reputation of being super friendly prevails!

After a number of calls we finally located our accommodation for the evening. The Four Mile Beach Inn. We then settled in to enjoy the remainder of the ride.

What we didn’t realize however, was that the Four Mile Beach Inn was much further along the trail than we had anticipated. In fact, it was all the way up at Cape North … the northern tip of Cape Breton island. Never fear, Joep is a driving maniac and we actually made it to the town before sundown. If we hadn’t gotten lost on the way to the B&B we would’ve also made it to the B&B before sundown but our GPS was not cooperating. No worries – We arrived at the B&B in time to meet John and Missy (best dog in the world … have I mentioned that Joep and I really want a dog? This desire is only growing stronger …). After settling us in, John informed us that there was one restaurant in the local town that would perhaps still be open if we were hungry. We made a made dash back to the town (a 20 minute drive away … this is really ‘getting away from it all’) where we were just in time to grab the last table at ‘Angie’s Restaurant’. We were literally eating in someones living room. And the roast dinner that I ordered rivals that of mother ship Delany’s (mum yours is still the best … this one was just really good, not the best). The service was also fantastic! We left dinner completely content and loving the hospitality in the Maritimes. Back at the B&B we settled in for a night of games and chilling out. Pure relaxation.

So just for context our B&B used to be the General Store of Cape North. The owner, John, has left the front of the house pretty close to what it was like back in the day so there are all kinds of cool things to check out. The rest of the house is cozy and comfortable and all around exactly what we were looking for. After a great night of sleep we enjoyed a delicious breakfast, went for a stroll around the grounds and then we hit the road to finish the Cabot Trail.

It was an amazing day of driving. We whiled the hours away taking in the phenomenal landscapes and enjoying some very good conversation. The Cabot Trail definitely lives up to its reputation as one of the prettiest drives in the world especially at this time of year when the leaves are all changing. It was breathtaking and we made the most of the lookout stop offs to take in all the views. We finished the trail during the morning hours and, after a stop off in Inverness for a bite to each and to stretch our legs, we headed back down to Halifax with plans of enjoying a nice looooong dinner somewhere.

It wasn’t hard to achieve this goal. We found a lovely little Italian restaurant right near the waterfront and we settled in to enjoy a long, delicious dinner with far too much wine. Heavenly. We had grand plans of hitting the dancefloor afterwards but the hours of eating, drinking and chatting flew by and before we knew it is was bed time. A successful day of R&R completed.

On Sunday morning we realized that we had achieved the goal of our trip with 2 days to spare. Having forgotten to bring our trusty Lonely Planet with us we resorted to the internet to figure out some good day trips from Halifax. We were not disappointed. First stop? Lunenburg!

An hour drive from Halifax, Lunenburg is a UNESCO world heritage site. The town itself dates back to 1753 and old town Lunenburg is really something to be seen. The waterfront is beautiful and all the old houses have been restored to their glory day. The streets are packed with little shops and cafes and the atmosphere in the town was completely festive. We loved it! We spent a good chunk of the morning there eating and wandering and checking out some pretty great shops. When we were finished in Lunenburg we had planned to head up to the Bay of Fundy.

For some reason we anticipated that this drive would take us longer than it did (a recurring theme on this trip) and we were pleasantly surprised to arrive at the Bay in the early afternoon. The Bay of Fundy is known for its huge tidal range claiming to have the highest and lowest tides in the world. So I read up on this (naturally) and found out that this claim has actually been challenged by the Leaf Basin in Ungava Bay which is in Nunavik (one of Canada’s Northern territories). Apparently, statisticians have officially declared that there is a tie between the 2 bays. Imagine getting that worked up about whose tides are the highest? Whatever floats your boat …

It wasn’t the high tides that drew us to the Bay of Fundy but rather a desire to check out some more of the coastline of Nova Scotia. The views from the bay were actually very impressive. We were also pleasantly surprised when we stumbled upon a hiking trail a Cape Split.

Despite being poorly equipped for a hiking trip we decided that it would be nice to get out and stretch our legs along the trail. As we walked into the trail we spotted a nice big sign informing us that between the months of September & March, hikers are required to wear ‘hunters orange’ so that they are not mistaken for bears or deer and therefore do not get shot by avid hunters. Hmmm. We didn’t have any hunters orange on. This did not deter us. We figured if we made enough noise we would be fine.

The sign also informed us that it was imperative that we remain on the trail at all times. This didn’t seem like such a big ask.

And so off we headed. At first the trail was pretty exciting and relatively easy. As we got deeper into the bush things got a bit more challenging. Then the trail became hard to find. Then the trail disappeared altogether. You’d be surprised at how long it took us to decide that the hike was a bad idea. Actually you’re probably not surprised at all. What is surprising is that it was not the fear of getting lost/shot/eaten by a bear that made us turn back for the car. It was the idea of being embarrassed when we were the stupid tourists who got lost/shot/eaten by a bear. No one wants to be that dumb Australian girl who went hiking in lovely leather fashion boots, jeans and a cute sweater with only a bottle of water a giant Dutchman for provisions.

When this thought crossed my mind (followed by picturing dad’s reaction when he got yet ANOTHER phone call from me in strife on a vacation somewhere …) it was decided that we should turn back. It was a good idea. The comfort of the car was welcome and we were able to make our way leisurely back to Halifax.

After an early evening nap in Halifax we headed out for a bite to eat and a few drinks. Happy hour prevailed and we ended up having a more exciting evening than planned but we didn’t mind this at all! The people in Halifax really epitomize the ‘friendly Canadian’ stereotype. We loved it!

After enjoying our last night out in Halifax we spent Monday taking in the city by day. Wandering the streets, spending some quality time in the city gardens and strolling along the waterfront. We got caught up in a few heated games of cards, ate some great food and soaked up as much of this relaxed living atmosphere as we could. *Content sigh*

Monday evening we made our way back to the airport for our flight home feeling completely and totally relaxed.

Canada continues to impress … seriously you go from Celtic provinces in the far east, then heading west you hit Quebec which is more French than France, then you get to Ontario which (don’t get mad Canadian’s … it is somewhat true) starts to be more American, Manitoba is next and from our brief encounter with it my impression is that it is pretty Canadian … and very cold … then there is Saskatchewan which is flat as flat can be. We haven’t been there yet so I can’t tell you what its like. After that you have Alberta which is like walking through the wild wild west (with amazing mountains!) and finally – British Columbia. Where Canadian’s meet Australian’s and the world is a wonderful place. Phew! Such diversity!

I really thought that after a few years in Europe I would miss the diversity of different cultures when we moved to Canada – My fears were unfounded! This country seriously has it all. And we haven’t even THOUGHT about the Northern Territories yet!

Still our ‘Canadian To Do’ list is slowly dwindling and we are thoroughly enjoying working our way through it – New adventures will need to be found pretty soon!

They Did!

It has been wedding season here in Canada for the last few months and boy do these Canadians know how to marry in style! We have been lucky enough to make some great new friends since we moved last year not to mention how lucky we were to make a Canadian friend in Amsterdam so we’ve been enjoying this wedding season very muchly!

After enjoying the festivities of the Mc El Mothe wedding in July we were more than a little bit excited to see what else Canadian’s had to offer on the wedding front.

First up was Natalie & Jasper! I worked with Jasper at KPMG in Holland and was lucky enough to be introduced to his now wife a few years ago now. After sharing a few too many crazy nights out in Amsterdam Joep & I were very touched to be invited to share in their big day in Toronto.

The wedding was just beautiful! A gorgeous church in downtown Toronto was the setting for the ceremony and I shed a few tears as Nat walked down the aisle looking gorgeous and being quieter than I imagined she was capable of being. It didn’t last long, thank goodness, and after the ceremony she was back to her old self. It was so great to see the 2 lovebirds so completely in luuuurve with each other. It was also fun for Joep and I to take notes on how a Dutch/non-Dutch wedding can be undertaken.

After the ceremony Joep and I headed for a wander through Toronto in the hopes of finding a bar to while away the hours between the ceremony and reception. Mission accomplished we were a few sheets to the wind by the time we arrived at the National Club, an exclusive private club in downtown Toronto. It was an amazing place to hold a wedding reception. Guests were greeted with drinks and hors d’oeuvres and it wasn’t long before the Dutch and non-Dutch guests were mingling easily. Our table for the meal was a mix of some of the most hilarious people in the room (a tough task given how many fun folks were around … West family, you are impressive!). We enjoyed an amazing meal, the speeches were hilarious, moving, thoughtful and memorable and just when we thought the night couldn’t get any better … the dancing began!

I don’t think many people left the dancefloor once the dancing part of the evening began. The band was fantastic and the dance moves were nothing short of phenomenal. The bride and groom were unstoppable! I was so impressed and hope that Joep & I can go the distance like they did at our own wedding!

For Joep and I the remainder of the evening was a blur of groove shaking and craziness. For me the dance portion of the evening ended abruptly in an unfortunate drink/dance related injury. Let me explain – There were many dance-off’s occurring throughout the evening. Nat was the winner of the majority of them however there was one wedding guest who was not to be defeated.

She was awesome. She had amazing moves. Joep, however, was convinced he could beat her and so they battled on the dance floor. At some point her dance partner was dragged into the battle followed by Joep dragging yours truly in as well. I didn’t really mind. However, after giving what I believe to be one of my better ‘running man’ performances, I was well and truly defeated. This girl, in a calf length black dress, walked the circle and then proceeded to do that dance move that break dancers do where they spin on their back and finish lying on their side. Oh. My. Goodness. It was incredible! As she finished up Joep began urging me to get back out there and defeat her. I couldn’t. I gave up. Joep was furious. Until I told him that a big reason I was giving up was that I was impaled by the girls stiletto heel as she spun around. Joep looked down at my foot and realized that the competition was over. Long story short, there was a decent amount of blood and a good chunk of skin missing from my foot. And it hurt a lot.

But the night was not going to end just because of a dancing injury. We made a few more friends up at the bar and I soon forgot the aches and pains. The night ended on a very big high!

Although on Sunday, as we drove back to Toronto things didn’t seem quite so lovely. Oh and my foot still really hurt. Worth it though. Totally worth it.

The following weekend, after wearing flat shoes all week and icing my foot regularly, we headed off to Cindy & Todd’s wedding. Cindy works with me and is, like Nat, hilariously good fun. This wedding was in Ottawa so we walked to the church for the ceremony at 1pm. The church was spectacular! I had no idea there was such a beautiful church in Ottawa! Again the ceremony was beautiful … and emotional (What is wrong with me? Why have I started to cry at other peoples weddings? Is it because I am getting married? I don’t get it … something has gone terribly wrong here …). After this ceremony Joep & I were able to head home for a midday nap before the reception.

It’s a good thing we did because this was another rip roaring celebration. The reception was held on the Quebec side of the river and again we were spoiled by incredible hors d’oeuvres, drinks and an amazing meal. We also had a great table made up of Cindy’s cousins and their partners all of whom were as full of energy as we were. The speeches were hilarious as were a few of the games played with the guests … we’re compiling ideas for our own wedding all the time these days!

The dancing portion of the evening was phenomenal. Joep had been full of dance moves the weekend before at Nat & Jasper's wedding but this time he was out of this world. You couldn’t stop him if you tried. Even when I wasn’t dancing with him he was on the dance floor pulling up old ladies and single bridesmaids and the like. At one point in the evening I was standing near the dance floor having a chat when I overheard a girl behind me exclaim ‘I love that guy! He is awesome! I want to dance with him next … who is he?’ I looked across the dance floor and said to the girl ‘Oh he’s with me!’ all proudly. I can honestly say I have never loved Joep more … I am also considering renting him out to brides all over Canada as entertainment for their weddings. He would be so good at that!

The night was again a huge success but … once again, there was an injury. Joep and I love to dance and often try to do swing dancing moves. I don’t know why. Late in the evening Joep called me over to swing dance with him. I did the run up, jumped into his arms, swung my legs to his right, then to his left and then … disaster struck. The next move is to go through his legs but I swung the wrong way and my bare feet collided with Joep’s shin bone. This doesn’t sound too bad right? Wrong. My big toe copped the brunt of the force causing the entire toenail to lift up and my toe to jar terribly. Again, there was blood. Again, it hurt to walk. Worse than the week before I had to immediately sit down and ice it up. Also worse than the week before, we had to go home. Thankfully we both saw the funny side of it.

On Sunday I didn’t find it as funny – I spent the entire day with my foot up and on ice ignoring Joep’s request that we go and get my toe x-rayed. It was swollen and blue but it was a little bit movable and therefore clearly not broken. It is now 2 weeks since that 2^nd injury and I am yet to be able to wear high heels. Totally worth it.

Wedding season is over for another year and the weather is starting to cool off a bit now. It has been SUCH fun to be a part of these big days for our friends and we are getting more and more excited about planning our own wedding! More on that to come in the not tooooo distant future!